A 30-minute look at a used car — before you talk price — can save you thousands. Use this checklist on every car you're serious about, then have an independent mechanic do a pre-purchase inspection before you buy.

Before you go

• Get the VIN and run a vehicle history report (accidents, title brands, odometer, owners).
• Check open recalls for free at nhtsa.gov/recalls.
• Ask the seller: Why are you selling? Any accidents? Service records? Is the title in your name, and is there a loan on it?
• Plan to go in daylight, when it's dry, with the engine cold.

Paperwork

• The title is in the seller's name and the VIN matches the car (dashboard and driver's door jamb).
• No lender is listed on the title — or the seller has the lien release.
• The title isn't branded salvage, rebuilt or flood unless you knew that going in.
• Service records match the mileage and the history report.

Outside

• Panel gaps and paint: uneven gaps, overspray or a color mismatch can mean accident repair.
• Rust: wheel wells, rocker panels, door bottoms and underneath. New Jersey road salt is hard on cars.
• Tires: even tread; uneven wear can mean alignment or suspension problems. Check the date code — tires older than about six years should be replaced.
• Glass and lights: chips, cracks and every bulb working.
• Under the car: fresh fluid drips or heavy rust on the frame.

Under the hood (engine off)

• Oil: honey to dark brown. Milky oil is a serious warning sign.
• Coolant: at the right level, not rusty or oily.
• Belts and hoses: no cracks or bulges.
• Battery: clean terminals; check the date.
• Signs of leaks or a freshly steam-cleaned engine that might be hiding them.

Inside

• Smell: mildew or heavy air freshener can mean water damage.
• Carpets and trunk: look under the mats for dampness or silt (flood damage).
• Every button: windows, locks, mirrors, seats, A/C and heat, radio, screen, camera, USB.
• Dashboard lights: they should all light up briefly at start and then go out. A warning light that never comes on can mean a bulb was removed.
• Wear vs. mileage: a worn pedal or seat on a low-mileage car doesn't add up.

The test drive (at least 20 minutes)

• Cold start: listen for knocking, ticking or smoke from the exhaust.
• City and highway: smooth acceleration, no hesitation, no slipping or harsh shifts.
• Brakes: straight stops, no pulling, grinding or pulsing pedal.
• Steering: no pulling, wandering or clunks over bumps; test tight turns both ways.
• Noises: humming that changes with speed (wheel bearings), clunks (suspension), whining (transmission or power steering).
• After the drive: look under the car again for new drips, and check for warning lights.

Get a pre-purchase inspection

For any car you're about to buy, pay an independent mechanic (not the seller's) to put it on a lift. It usually costs $100–$200. They can spot frame damage, leaks, worn parts and computer trouble codes you can't see in a driveway. If a seller refuses an inspection, walk away.

New Jersey inspection after you buy

New Jersey passenger cars need an emissions inspection every two years; new cars are exempt for their first five model years. Inspections at state inspection centers are free. Check the sticker on the windshield for when the car is due, and if the car came from out of state, get it inspected within 14 days of registering it here.

Next: How to buy a used car in NJ · NJ Used Car Lemon Law